Day 16 Raton New Mexico

Ok, to say I'm drunk would be a too strong word. The thing is, like many people, I do enjoy a drink in the evening to calm the nerves shattered by a day of whatever one does for a living.
However I usually might have a beer or perhaps a glass or 2 of wine. Don't judge me you bastards, what do you know anyway!
So, here in the states you can't buy a single small beer. It's a six pack or these single giant things that probably equal a six pack. Herein lies the problem. We have had a great day and I'll get back to that in a moment but the day has been hot and not really involved much food. At the end of our days endeavours I thought I would have afore mentioned beer, which I duly did, and then write this blog. Bad idea. I am now resisting strong urges to tell you all how much I love you and then burst into tears. On top of that Dave doesn't drink so I am trying to act natural( most of you have been there but trust me, your parents always know- they were there too).
Ok, I digress.
Both of us are very excited. Tomorrow morning at 5am I'm going to kick Daves arse out of bed( yeah right say the McMillan clan) to start our day one of the Trans America Trail. Because we like to do things that way we are starting on the longest day of the TAT with plenty of warnings from Sam ( see blog 1)about not dallying, no more than 20minutes for lunch, don't pass certain points after a certain time or you will die out there etc etc
I'm sure I'll sleep well tonight...
Well today was spent doing final TAT preparations on the bikes. They are now on knobbly tyres and have route sheet holders, see photos, to help navigate. We ( Dave) also wired some looms that will allow us to plug Bernie, the winch in as required. Hopefully it will not be required.
I would like to give a big thanks to Hesters Bike shop here in Raton. John, Connie and JR were awesome in allowing us space to work on the bikes, lending a few tools and changing tyres, all with no pre-booking. Today's work could have been a real chore and ended up being a pleasant day doing the work and chatting. So thanks.
No other news really.
We have been out to eat and the beer has worn off.
Early to bed, till next time

Day 15 just a few more pics

I didn't want to dilute the beauty of the last picture so these are separate.
Not many photos today as we were motoring through a bit but obviously we had to have a picture at the continental devide. The mountain scenery is descending off the Monarch pass and gave Dave an opportunity to test both his braking as well as sphincter control as he almost ended up my arse ( figuratively speaking all you dirty minds out there).
It was pretty cool to see some Bison. How I managed to take such terrible photos I do not know.
The night scene is sundown over Gunnison yesterday.
Right, that's all for now.

Day 15 Raton, New Mexico

So today was really a transport stage to Raton, the furthest east we will travel on this trip. We finally crossed the continental devide over the Monarch pass. Once again I am reminded not to put our intended plans on the blog as I said 3 days ago we would cross it.
Dave and I decided to test each others patience at our morning fuelling stop. The bikes were filled and I went off to the road leading to our next destination. I look in my rear view mirror to see Mr McMillan ride off through another exit in the wrong direction. What I couldn't see is that he had circled around behind a tour bus to come back into the petrol station.
Charming. Crap I think ( actually much more robust words were thought). Well best I go fetch him to point him in the right direction so I go haring off down the highway. Now I figure that Dave must have thought that I had already left and therefore would be going pretty rapidly to catch the virtual me. Hence I would need to go really, really fast to catch him... You can appreciate how rediculous this was I am sure. Well after a number of miles of course I hadn't caught him and had decided it wasn't worth dying for so thought I would just head back to the petrol station and wait till he appeared. Of course when I got back he was sitting there all pleased with himself, wondering what all the fuss was about. Linda, you are a special lady and probably too good for him.
Today I have to admit I'm quite pleased we didn't go all the way to Arkansas. We are now on the other side of the Rockies, dead flat plains as far as the eye can see and hot as hell. To cross them just so we could cross them again would not have been fun.
We are again at the mercy of FedEx. They should be delivering some tyres to Hesters bike shop here in Raton. They have very kindly let us use their facilities to put fresh knobbly tyres on the bikes. Please let the planets align to make this happen ( the object whose name we don't mention us still fresh in our memories).
We expect to be here tomorrow night still. The day will be spent doing final prep for the trail which for me has consisted of throwing out half my gear.
If I can do it without Dave noticing I may throw out some of the 20 000 sachets of instant coffee he has me dragging around the states as well.
Finally, and Linda I'm sorry it took him only two weeks to move on, I caught Dave lurking around this lass with obvious lusty thoughts..

Day 14 Gunnison, Colorado

It's funny how things work out. Dave and l woke up a bit miserable today. Don't worry, no sympathy expected from those of you who are at work. Our brief downer related to the frustration of trying to get our tyres from Conway in Arkansas onto our bikes here in Colorado and the fact that we have had too many delays due to things beyond our control.
Anyway, we decided to do a day ride out of Gunnison and ended up having just the best day.
We rode just north of town into some alpine passes. After a lovely ride up to a disused railway tunnel over some epic terrain, we then ride up to the base of Hancocks pass which is cool riding, again pupils very dilated and generally very focused as it is covered in loose baby head boulders. We didn't go over the top this time but may well be back when we come through here on the TAT. You tube did not do this justice and it is certainly a good challenge on the big bikes( which once again impressed us).
Then the usual afternoon convection storms arrived. We rode up over the 12000 foot Cumberland pass. No photos I am afraid due to heavy rain, hail, thunder and lightning. Surprisingly, rather than being terrified which is my natural state, I thoroughly enjoyed it. Epic. My hands were so cold on the way down I wasn't sure if I would hang onto the bike. Hard to have any feel of the brakes when you are numb.
Had the inevitable coffee, given to us for free, by Chris at the Taylor park trading post on the way out. Nice man, fellow rider.
What a day!
Tonight we are sharing the motel with hundreds of Harley riders. The thing is that these people are really nice. Average age would be on the wrong side of 60 or more. They are all friendly and chatty. The Harley's are of course brutes of things and how some of these little ladies hold them upright I do not know. Most have trailers! Really.
Actually quite a few are on trikes as well. A nice community. None of this bunch seem to have bandannas.
The theme of people being kind and friendly continues except for the grumpy lady who didn't like us going to the front of the queue at the road works. She chased us for quite a few miles, hooting and carrying on. Have you ever?
Tomorrow we head south east out of the Rockies towards our TAT start point in Trinidad. We are not sad as we are coming back here as part of the TAT and most excited knowing what waits.
Thank you Gunnison, it's been great.
Enjoy the pictures. As usual the reality was beyond what I could capture. Look at the one scenic pic and you can see the trail threading across the face.
It is quite important to stay on the trail in this part of the world. Bernie the winch would need a 300m cable to be any use here!

Lucky Day 13 Gunnison Colorado

We had a short day today with a bit of everything thrown in. The absolute highlight was riding the 13 000 foot(4000m) Engineer pass between Silverton and Lake City. It has to rate as some of the most spectacular riding I have ever done and certainly the best big bike riding I've ever done. The riding was enjoyably challenging but very focused as at times a mistake would have had significant consequences. Once again impressed with the bike and how it climbed steep rocky pitches with no drama. Actually i was also impressed with Dave and myself.
Also once again the pictures today do no justice to the views or the ride. I took a few photos of Dave on the easy lower slopes but higher up there wasn't the opportunity for action shots.
Had our first rain today. There were heavy thunderstorms around and the upper pass was covered in a thick layer of hail on the ground. We had a but of rain on the way down and then heavy rain into Gunnison.
We are loving the Rockies. Durango is a lovely although very expensive town, that's the night time picture. Silverton also a nice town, all with a lot of Gold rush history. We passed several ghost towns up on the mountains. I should have taken more photos but camera buried deep in rain gear.
We plan to spend the day here tomorrow doing some unladen riding. Not sure what or where yet but the map shows some interesting options.
Tom tells me that he has heard that the Indians may have been called after In Dios which means go with god.
A much nicer version. I'm going to go with that although I believe the Spanish spent quite a bit of energy sending the Indians to meet their maker, maybe go to god?
Enough of that. No humorous anecdotes today. Dave is behaving himself although he was disappointed that I refused to ride back up a second pass at 11000 feet at 5 pm with us surrounded by storms. The man knows no fear.

Day 12 Durango, Colorado

Every day I learn a few more things. Now stop me if you already know this but it turns out that American Indians are called that because Columbus( I'm on shaky ground rediculing his navigational skills) thought he had found India and hence everybody he saw must be Indian. A bit sad that the name has stuck till today.
Theses people were surprisingly sophisticated and 700 years or more ago were building advanced stone and mortar buildings as well as quite beautiful jewellery.
Not a tepee in sight, I think they were more for the nomadic tribes on the central plains where they could follow buffalo.
Some interesting(barely)motorcycling culture. In New Zealand motorcyclists great with the upturned traditional wave, here in the states they greet by pointing down to the ground. No idea why.
Since leaving California we have seen very few helmets or protective gear. It's hot but Han and Luke like their skin too much. Most of the motorcyclists wear bandannas and moustaches, the women too.
So we had a cruisy-ish day today of only 170 miles but our first proper off roading between Blanding and into the Hovenweep national monument reserve. Found some nice pylon jeep track and then did a section of sandy double track. It was good for me to get my confidence up as I stayed upright and enjoyed it.
Lunch served by a lovely lady in Cortez and then Mesa Verda where I learnt all of the above re the Pueblo and Navajo people.
Now in Durango in the Rockies. Yes!
Tomorrow we cross the continental decide.
Didn't take many pics today but these are from the morning rude and a few scenic ones from top of Mesa Verda.
Till next time

Day 11 Blanding Utah

Wow! Today went well beyond superlatives. I thought after yesterday's grind through Nevada that I was over the desert( sorry Tom), but today showed me or reminded me that the desert takes many different forms.
We rode through Capital Reef National park followed by Glen Canyon , lake Powell and a little side trip to the natural bridges monument where Dave got me into trouble, more about that later.
Today was all about that classic Utah scenery, mesas, buttes and the most amazing rock formations you can imagine. Much of it was framed by vegetation to soften the view.
It is simply rediculous how mother nature can just slap you through the face with these astonishing views around every corner, for mile after mile.
Dave and I rode in a leisurely fashion today, often below the speed limit ( a stark contrast to yesterday's hell for leather race away from the thunderstorms ). What a pleasure. Lots of stops. We even dipped our toes in a bit of off roading in Capitol reef that really whetted the appetite for tomorrow.
I can't put all the pics of today but enjoy the gist of it.
So, a few other things. We met Sally and Mat who are riding their bicycles across the states. Respect, truly. I immediately felt like a simpering pansy thinking that I have a few aches and pains after just a few full days riding. They were just doing short 40 miles day, laden with gear in 30+ degrees Celsius over some significant hills.
So, thanks to my friend Dave I got a talking to from a park ranger. I was happily cruising ( actually desperately chasing Dave) up on the pegs. I sat down to find my rear view mirrors full of flashing lights. A ticking off and lesson learnt. The best bit was riding on for a few miles to the next intersection wondering where Dave is. No sign of him, a bit worried,as we always would wait at intersections but never mind.I didn't think he knew I had been pulled over. I'm about to pull off when I hear beep, beep. I'm looking everywhere and eventually about 100m in dense bush I see this orange helmet poking out. Now Stevie and Rickie, do not take an example from your dad. I don't know why he bothered. I gave my name as Dave McMillan anyway...
Tomorrow Hovenweep and Mesa Verda, thanks Tom
Enjoy the pics
P.S. no alcohol bylaw I'm Blanding, I didn't know that when we stopped. I expect Dave will will get a bit of a fright tonight at 4am when he is tapping out emails to find me leaping naked out of bed shouting "the ants are crawling under my skin, or the pink elephants are after me!"

The picture of the streamlined couple is Sally and Mat, for the dumb ones who couldn't work that out.

Day 10 Salina Utah

Today was just a big transit day. Got up early and rode to a place called Ely. 168 miles of the " loneliest road".
Then from Ely a further 150 mile to the next town. The distances here are huge. We were not impressed with Ely.
Spent most of the day dodging thunderstorms. They were all around us but by some kindness of the gods they never caught us.
I'm off to bed early. Living with a vampire can take its toll. Last night I woke up at about 3 am to find Dave hanging upside down from the ceiling.
The man just does not sleep.
Having said that, to reassure the loved ones I am insisting on an early night tonight. Actually, as I type he is having a power nap at the computer.
Sorry, not much by way if photos today as we had to cover some ground.
Having said that, with all the issues that delayed us( I said I wouldn't mention it by name again), we have realised its not realistic to go all the way to Arkansas. Still planning but it is likely we spend a few days in and around the Rockies, seeing as both if us like the mountains and then head back on the TAT. As always plans ate fluid. They have to be as nothing goes according to plan anyway.
The panorama is from the US's loneliest road this morning.
Till next time..

And just a couple more

Day 9 Tonopah

Wow! What a day. I'm pleased to say Dave and I learnt from yesterday's mistakes and had a great day. A pretty huge day but just awesome. So many times today ( like almost around every bend) I thought should I stop to take photos but you just can't.
We rode from the arid foothills of the Sierra Nevadas in the west via Maraposa ( an old Western gold rush town) for coffee, of course. Then followed the Merced river into Yosemite. Words can't do it justice.
This beautiful mountain river flows down the centre if the valley with these huge granite monoliths towering above you. It's glacial country and at times reminded me of a rugged version of the Swiss Alps, but to compare Yosemite to somewhere else is to do it an injustice. Look at the pics and times by 10 000. My only regret is that I couldn't stay there to walk up into the hills.
Well, after that we rode up over the top of the Sierra Nevadas on the Tioga pass. More awesome and very unique landscape. Pines on rock. I think they are called lodge pole pines but not sure if I heard the charming lady at the Tuomnys meadow info centre correctly.
From there down into Nevada. Huge country. Starkly beautiful and after a fortifying coffee in s hole called Benton we have made our way into Tonopah.
The bikes are just great and do well designed for this kind of travel. They just lope along. They are carrying the luggage so well that too be honest I don't even know its there.
Anyway. Neither of us did anything silly today so I'll leave it at that.
Early start tomorrow to avoid the heat.
Enjoy the pics.